Cascading Backstay

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The first step to creating a cascading backstay is to install another eye bolt on the transom.  The animation above shows the basic steps.  Measure and mark the location. Double check!  Your transom is not perfectly symmetrical, nor was the hardware installed symmetrically. So make sure the bolt is going where you want it before you drill.

Use a center punch or an awl to mark the hole. That way your drill bit will not "skate" across the transom. Use an 1/8" drill bit to drill a pilot hole. If you see brass shavings then you know your transom has a brass plate sandwiched in the transom. Therefore there is no need to bolt the eye which is difficult to do because of the lack of room to get a socket up from underneath.  If you have brass then you can drill and tap the hole. 

I have brass so I bought a 1/2"-13 tap. It cost $6.00 at my local hardware store.  After the pilot hole I drill with a 27/64" drill bit (specified on the tap packaging).

Insert you tap. Slowly and firmly begin to thread the tap into the hole clockwise. Be sure to keep the tap square to the hole. Don't let it wobble!  If it gets to hard to turn then back it out, clean out the cutting threads and reinsert. 

Once the whole is tapped all the way through, add some sealant to the hole (I use Lexan), put a washer on the bolt and screw it in. It should go in fairly easily.  Use a crescent wrench to finish it off. Don't over tighten!  This is only brass and it is soft so be careful not to strip this hole.  All done!

 

  



 

I rigged the cascade with 1/4" Amsteel 12 strand. It is about 4 times as strong as 316 SS cable and is much softer on your hands. 

 

The purchase is assembled from 29mm Harken Carbo Triple blocks. I used 3/16" Samson XLS for the purchase line.  I tested the system and it works great. I can really crank the mast back which provides the much needed forestay tension for breezy conditions.

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